One of my favorite Scottish Western Isles is Islay (pronounced EYE-lay), the most southerly if the Inner Hebrides which has poignant reminders of its impressive past. The starkly beautiful High Cross of Kildare is a masterpiece of stone carving, and at Kilchoman there is a splendid medieval Celtic Cross. The Queen of the Hebrides, as it's aptly called, is also known for it's unspoiled beauty, peaty Scotch malt whisky, goats' milk tablet, atmospheric pubs (notably the Lochside), fresh seafood, and Cheddar and Dunlop cheeses. Here's a starter made with the latter.

• 1/3 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• 1/2 pound Dunlop or Cheddar cheese, shredded
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
• Freshly ground pepper

Spread oats in a medium ungreased skillet. Toast over medium-high heat, stirring two or three times, until edges are golden, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; cool.

In a large bowl combine the shredded cheese, butter, Worcestershire, paprika, mustard, and pepper. Remove to a flat surface. Shape with the hands into a log or rectangle, about seven inches long. Sprinkle with toasted oats to cover completely, pressing them into the log. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate several hours, up to three days. Serve at room temperature with oatcakes or wheat crackers.