• 1 shoulder or leg lamb, about 4 lb (1.8 kg)
• 2 medium garlic cloves, sliced
• black pepper
• 3 tablespoons oil
• 1/2 teaspoon chopped rosemary
• 4 anchovy fillets, drained
• 1/2 pint (300 ml) brown stock or consommé
• 1/4 pint (150 ml) port wine
• 1 teaspoon butter rolled with the same of flour
• 1 teaspoon mushroom ketchup (see below) or soy sauce
• salt & pepper

Score the meat over the top in diamond fashion, then sliver the garlic and insert the slivers both under the skin and in the flesh, then dust well with black pepper. Heat up the oil and brown the meat all over quickly, then put into a baking tin and trickle what oil remains over the top, then sprinkle the rosemary over.

Roast at 400°F (200°C) or gas mark 6 for 20 minutes to the pound plus 20 minutes over, if liked pink in the middle, or 25-30 minutes for well-cooked meat. Meanwhile mash up the anchovies and add the stock or consommé, port and seasoning. Bring to the boil, stirring well, and cook for about 10 minutes. After the meat has been cooking for about 40 minutes, baste with the hot anchovy and wine mixture. Do this again before cooking time is completed.

When cooked put the joint on to a warmed serving dish and keep warm. Boil up the pan juices after removing any excess fat, and add small pieces of the butter rolled in flour stirring all the time until the sauce thickens slightly. Add the mushroom ketchup or soy, taste for seasoning and either serve over the joint or separately.

As will be noticed this is a popular flavouring in Scotland, taking the place of the widely used Worcestershire sauce in England. This recipe is from the Scottish Women's Rural Institutes, c.1947.

'Gather nice fresh mushrooms (the morning preferred), go over them all and put in a large earthenware dish. Sprinkle with common salt. Go on adding more mushrooms for 3 or 4 days, always adding a sprinkling of salt, and stirring with a wooden spoon. After adding the last lot, let them remain overnight, then put the contents into a pan, bring to the boil and let it simmer for 30-35 minutes, then strain through muslin. Put this liquid on again and boil for the same time, but seasoning this time with black peppercorns, cayenne pepper, cloves and a blade or two of mace. Strain all and bottle when cold; this ketchup will keep for two years if well-made.'