For many gastronomes, the greatest treasure of all birds is the grouse. Although there are several species--the capercailzie (sic?) or wood, ptarmigan or white, and the black--the most highly prized is the red, called simply grouse or Scotch grouse, which is found on the moorlands of Scotland. The first grouse that falls each year on August 12 heralds the opening of the shooting season, and ardent guns from all over the world come to bag them, a sport reserved for privileged, well-heeled participants. The grouse have a particular gamey individual flavor achived from dining on heather and are most often cooked stuffed with a handful of whortleberries or cranberries. As is also the case with the pheasant, they are made into superb pies.

• 4 young grouse, dressed
• 4 thin slices bacon
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 cups meat or chicken broth
• salt, freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups light cream
• 3 to 4 tablespoons redcurrant or raspberry jelly

Rinse birds; drain and pat dry. Wrap a slice of bacon around each bird and secure with a skewer. In a large skillet melt butter over medium-high heat. Add birds and fry, turning once, until golden on all sides. Pour in broth. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook slowly, covered, until tender, about 30 minutes, depending on the age of the birds. Remove birds to a platter and keep warm. Scrape up the drippings. Add flour; mix well. Pour in cream and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until thickened and smooth. Stir in jelly. Correct the seasoning. When cooked, transder birds to a platter. Cut into halves. Pour a little sauce over them. Serve remainder of sauce in a bowl.